[depth] tooling custom processing clothing model division is the backbone of the enterprise

Clothing model teacher is the backbone of the company

One of the external causes of bottlenecks:

Low corporate importance

At present, the domestic apparel companies attach much less importance to the pattern division than to the designers. But on the contrary, in foreign countries, foreign companies attach great importance to all aspects of the layout type division. Of course, the salary of the domestic model division is also far from the foreign model division. The type teacher is the dominant force of the enterprise technical team. Only by having a stable team of type-model teachers can it be possible to continue the brand-type style of the enterprise better, so that the brand can establish a unique brand image.

For this phenomenon, Li Wei, a professor at the School of Fine Arts of Tsinghua University, said that usually the space given by the company to the layout division is very limited. In fact, the layout division should be more involved in the operation and operation of the company, because the work of the division-type division is related to the product itself, and the high degree of participation allows them to have a better understanding of the company. It will be more handy, and the technical expertise will also be beneficial to the development of the company.

“Domestic and foreign apparel companies have completely different attitudes towards designers and pattern makers.” Li Dangtang said that many foreign entrepreneurs generally think that designers are guests invited by enterprises if his works are not in conformity with the enterprise. The direction of development and the brand's taste, then companies will re-submit people at an appropriate time; while the model division is considered by them as their own family, because the core competitiveness that a company or brand depends on for long-term survival is often technology. , And this technology is in the hands of a pattern maker, not a designer. However, in China, people do not have a profound understanding of the important status of the layout division.

The second cause of bottlenecks:

Lack of systematic education

It is understood that 70% of the existing apparel companies in China lack qualified fashion model teachers. Many companies have stated in their interview that the recruiting channels of type-model teachers are relatively single, and they are limited to channels such as the talent market, universities, headhunters, and friends.

Most of the on-duty teachers of Chinese garment companies are from sewing workers. Many companies select the best performers from the sewing industry and let them apply for a one-year apprenticeship for the type-educational teacher. After the “apprenticeship”, they become the type-edition teacher. Their common characteristic is “experienced” talents. However, with the ever-increasing demand for personalized clothing, as well as the diversified development of clothing structure and models, it is particularly important to enhance the overall quality of the type-based division.

“At present, the ranks of domestic model teachers are expanding, but the ratio of excellent model teachers has grown somewhat slowly.” Jin Jinlong said that the level of education in schools is uneven, and that most of the industry’s pattern teachers are self-taught, and some The outstanding edition teacher thinks traditionally and is unwilling to accept the apprentice, hindering the birth of the new generation of high quality teacher.

Bottleneck internal causes:

Self-cultivation is lacking

Personal thoughts are cured

The big reason for the development of the layout division is still the individual. As an outstanding model division, superb technology and rich work experience are of course important, but the layout artist must also pay attention to cultivating his own artistic and cultural conservation. Clothing is a fashion industry and a beauty-creating industry. This requires that the model-makers walk out of the studio and into the fashion area to experience life, feel life, and cultivate their own artistic sentiment. Only by constantly improving self-cultivation can we better promote garment technology to another higher level.

Some of the pattern designers are still in the stage of “wearing on the human body” in the concept of layout design. They blindly pursue the compatibility of the human body size and the version type. They do not have a deep understanding of the development course and brand style of the corporate apparel brand, which has led to the market. On the appearance of clothing similarities and differences. This is a misunderstanding of layout design, and it is a major factor in the lack of advanced technical talent.

One of the cracking methods:

Strengthen the manpower training mechanism

Some designers believe that in order to improve these deficiencies, first of all, it is necessary to establish a comprehensive training mechanism for designers and type designers, and to strengthen the overall quality education for designers and type designers. Cai He said that as an excellent model division, not only does the designer have the same imagination and creativity, but also the engineer's ability to control rational thinking, because the process of typemaking itself is a combination of creativity and technology. Values ​​reflect the process. Only with these qualities can be improved, the layout master can deal with various types of designs more handily, and it is easier to improve the efficiency, accuracy and completeness of creative productization.

Li Wei also believes that for the enterprise, the growth of the model division plays an important role. For example, some brand enterprises have paid too much attention to the market, but they have neglected how to control the clothing type in the production process, which will certainly affect the long-term development of the company.

"Unfortunately, at present, the education level of institutional teachers is generally not high, teachers are not strong, teachers are generally lacking in plate-making practical experience, and the theoretical height is limited. Students find it difficult to obtain high-quality professional guidance from schools." Beijing Qian Jianguang, general manager of Jianjiang Garment Group, said. Zheng Hao also believes that at present, the best solution should be the docking of schools and enterprises.

The second method of cracking:

Speed ​​up self-improvement

"The excellent layout teacher understands the design, and the good designer understands the version." For the aspects that should improve the layout model division, she now works for Beijing Pathfinder Outdoor Products Co., Ltd. as the head of product development. Zhang Jinwen said that to be a good clothing practitioner, it should be a "clothing miscellaneous house", understand design, understand version type, understand craftsmanship, understand fabrics.

He said that on the one hand, there is a need for the improvement of the pattern-type division itself, which includes the improvement of professional skills, the improvement of professional qualities, and the improvement of self-cultivation. In order to get the respect of the industry, we must first respect the industry. To jump in this small circle of publishing divisions, take the initiative to attack and do more market research, research consumers, accept new things. Cross-border thinking can always collide with traditional ideas in unexpected sparks.

On the other hand, the layout division needs to attract enough attention from the industry. Now that every year's International Fashion Week is promoting outstanding designers, we can find a better model and will always push the model division behind the scenes to the front. Of course, the Technical Committee of the China Designers Association has been making efforts and promotion in this area, but it still needs more support. In addition, media involvement and efforts are also needed. Only the guidance and promotion of the media can enable the society to better understand the great role the model division plays in the development of the garment industry.

Gong Lining, a Beijing-based exhibition designer of fashion design and style, also has his own views. He believes that the version-type teacher must go to the society, experience the different attitudes and needs of modern people, and feel different fashion information from time to time. In addition, the layout model division should participate in the product development process, which will help provide support for product development.

"Currently, the boundary line between the pattern division designer and the designer is getting more and more sturdy. The designer wants to make the plate, and the type teacher must also understand the design." Ren Shuxian said that it is also a good idea to let the pattern division designer as an assistant. s Choice.

The origin of the model division

Chinese garment technicians gradually transitioned from the original "tailor" to the pattern division. Its layout design is from the design thinking to the costume modelling, and then the entire process of copying into the product of production. The "patterns" produced by the pattern-makers are special words for the modern garment industry and contain "patterns, standards," and other meanings.

The Chinese clothing version refers to the generic name of a clothing pattern that meets most of the domestic body types and popular needs. Most of the current layout divisions use the Chinese version type, which may include loose military casual dress type, fit type fashion type, fit type tailored for individual processors, and batch processors suitable for commercialized garments. The industrialization used is not fully integrated. In the flat fashion type obtained by the three-dimensional cutting method, the fashion version made using the “base method”, the “prototype method” and the “national type law”, and the fashion version formed on the basis of various pattern revisions are adopted. , it does not belong to the Chinese version.